Skellig Michael or Great Skellig*** Skellig Michaeli ehk Suur Skellig

Skellig Michael (private collection) *** foto erakogust

Skellig Michael, also known as Great Skellig, stands as a solitary island in the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, proudly claiming its place as part of Ireland's natural heritage. This rugged landmass, the larger of the two Skellig Islands, boasts a rich history intertwined with the tapestry of Christian monasticism.

It is believed that a Christian monastery took root on Skellig Michael sometime between the 6th and 8th centuries, serving as a beacon of spiritual devotion amidst the harsh beauty of the Atlantic landscape. For centuries, the monastery flourished, its inhabitants living in seclusion and prayer, until the late 12th century when it was forsaken, shrouded in mystery and silence.

In recognition of its cultural significance, Skellig Michael, along with the remnants of its ancient monastery, was bestowed with the prestigious title of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. This designation underscores the island's unparalleled ability to encapsulate the essence of Christian monasticism, echoing the spiritual fervor that once permeated the hallowed grounds of North Africa, the Near East, and Europe.

Yet, Skellig Michael is not merely a sanctuary of human history; it is also a thriving ecosystem teeming with life. Among its inhabitants are thousands of Atlantic puffins, whose playful antics and vibrant presence enchant visitors from afar. Eager to witness these majestic birds in their natural habitat, I embarked on a journey to the island, fueled by the allure of encountering these magnificent creatures amidst the untamed wilderness.

Alas, fate had other plans, as I arrived a mere month after the conclusion of the puffins' breeding season. Their departure, a seasonal migration ingrained in their instinctual rhythm, left the island devoid of their lively chatter and colorful plumage. Yet, even in their absence, the spirit of Skellig Michael endures, a testament to the enduring resilience of nature and the timeless allure of this remote outpost in the Atlantic.

Puffin (source internet) *** Lunn (pilt internetist)

The journey from Dublin to Portmagee spans approximately 5 hours, traversing through picturesque landscapes to reach this quaint fishing village. Portmagee, nestled along the rugged coast, holds the distinction of being granted 13 boat licenses annually to tour operators, each permitted a single daily excursion to Skellig Michael during the summer months, from April to October, contingent upon favorable weather conditions.

Due to safety concerns arising from the precarious ascent up the monastery's rocky and weather-worn steps, climbs are prohibited during inclement weather, which is not uncommon given Ireland's reputation for its rainy and windy climate. The likelihood of reaching the island stands at a precarious 50/50, a testament to the unpredictable nature of the Irish weather. Fortunately, perseverance paid off, and I succeeded in reaching Skellig Michael on my second attempt.

Accommodations in Portmagee are abundant, with numerous charming bed and breakfast establishments dotting the village. During my stay, I highly recommend The Waterfront Bed & Breakfast, a delightful retreat offering cozy comforts and warm hospitality.

In Portmagee, the pivotal moment arrives at 10 in the morning when tour operators receive clearance to embark on their maritime voyages. To maximize the opportunity of visiting Skellig Michael, I suggest planning a two-night stay, affording ample time for multiple attempts at securing passage to the island. During my excursion, I joined a cohort of fellow adventurers, comprising 13 boats, each capable of accommodating 12 passengers, ensuring a maximum limit of 180 visitors on the island at any given time.

Our expedition was graced by the presence of a New York Times photographer, who captured the essence of our journey in a compelling article featured in the travel section. As an added bonus, I even found myself immortalized in one of the photographs, clad in vibrant pink against the backdrop of Skellig Michael's rugged terrain. For a glimpse into our adventure, you can peruse the article and accompanying images at the following link: http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2012/10/28/travel/28IRELAND-12.html.

Christian Monastery on Skellig Michael  (New York Times)*** Kristlik klooster Skellig Michaelsil (foto NYT)

Kerry, renowned for its majestic mountains, tranquil lakes, and rugged Atlantic coastline, stands as one of the most picturesque regions in Ireland, captivating visitors with its breathtaking natural beauty. Nestled in Southern Ireland, Kerry ranks among the foremost tourist destinations in the country, drawing travelers from far and wide to immerse themselves in its scenic splendor.

For those who may have been unable to secure passage to the iconic Skellig Michael, Kerry offers a wealth of alternative attractions to explore. From verdant valleys to dramatic cliffs, the county's diverse landscapes beckon adventurers to embark on a journey of discovery through its enchanting terrain. Whether traversing winding coastal roads or ascending to panoramic viewpoints, Kerry promises an unforgettable experience for nature enthusiasts and explorers alike.

Dingle Peninsula (photo from internet) *** Dingle poolsaar (foto internetist)

Sunset through the old shipwreck at the Rossbeigh Beach - (Private Collection) *** Päikeseloojang läbi iidse laevavraki (Erakogust)

Last but not least:

The best dining experience I had in one of the local places:

 

Ah, a delightful choice indeed! Plaice, with its delicate flavor and tender texture, is a true delight for seafood enthusiasts. Whether grilled to perfection, pan-seared with a hint of lemon, or baked with flavourful herbs and spices, plaice offers a delectable main course that satisfies the palate with its subtle yet distinctive taste. Paired with a medley of seasonal vegetables or a refreshing salad, this beloved fish makes for a memorable and satisfying dining experience.

 Ireland is catholic country and they do have very beautiful graveyards. 2 pictures below are from one of them in Kerry country

Private collection *** Erakogust

And I really liked the sweet message below. It was on one of the graves :) and it is a nice ending to my story today!

Saar on üks kahest Skelligi saarest ja kuulub UNESCO maailmapärandisse. Tegemist on 21,9 ha suuruse vulkaanilise päritolu Atlandi Ookeanis, mis kuulub Iirimaale. 6-8 sajandil rajati saarele kristlik klooster. Viimased püsiasukad olid saarel 12-13. sajandil - sellel ajal kliima ümber saare muutus külmemaks ja tuulisemaks ja ka kristlikus kirikus puhusid teised tuuled ning kloostrile tuli leida teine koht. Säilinud on juurdepääsu kivitrepid ning osaliselt renoveeritud kloostrivaremed. Selle sarnast kloostrit ei leidu kusagil Põhja-Aafrikas, Lähis-Idas ega Euroopas.

Lisaks eeltoodule on saar tuhandete lunnide pesitsuskohaks (pilt ülalpool). Nad lendavad sinna aprillis ja lahkuvad juuli lõpus. See oli tegelik põhjus, miks mina saarele minna tahtsin. Kohapeal selgus, et linnud olid kuu aega tagasi ära lennanud ja kahjuks jäid lunnid seekord nägemata.

Autosõit Dublinist Portmageesse võtab väikese peatusega 5 tundi. Portmagee on väike kaluriküla Kerry maakonnas, kus igal aastal antakse 13 paadilitsentsi ekskursioonide korraldajatele, kes suvehooajal (aprillist oktoobrini) korraldavad igaüks iga päev ühe reisi Skellig Michaeli saarele, kui ilm lubab. Kuna kloostrikompleksini kalju tipus viivad trepid on järsud, vanad ja lagunenud, ei korraldata ekskursioone tugeva tuule või vihmaga. Teadupärast on Iirimaa tuuline ja vihmane, seega on saarele pääsemise võimalus 50/50. Mul õnnestus saarele pääsed teisel korral.

Portmagees on päris mitu B&B-d. Ööbisin Waterfront Bed & Breakfastis http://www.thewaterfrontportmagee.com/ ja soovitan soojalt teistelegi.

Meresõidu luba või keeld antakse laevakaptenitele hommikul kell 10. Et suurendada oma saarele pääsemise võimalusi soovitan Portmagees olla 2 ööd.  Nagu juba enne mainitud sain mina saarele teisel katsel: sellel päeval läks saarele 13 paati ja igas ühes 12 inimest. Korraga lubatakse saarele 180 inimest. Meil vedas, et saime oma 40 minutilist meresõitu jagada New York Timesi fotograafiga. Artikkel koos teksti ja fotodega ilmus natsa pärast meie reisu ja seda saab huvi korral internetist lugeda: http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2012/10/28/travel/28IRELAND-12.html. Ma jäin ka pildile oma roosas jopes (pilt üleval pool).

Kerry maakond on väga maaliline ja lummav, üks olulisemaid turismi sihtpunkte ning asub Lõuna-Iirimaal. Et isegi kui Skellig Michaelsile ei pääse pole vaja nukrutseda - autole hääled sisse ja muud head paremat uudistama: Kerry ring, mille üks osa on Dingle poolsaar. Nautisime imeilusat päikeseloojangut peaaegu et inimtühjal Rossbeigh rannal :)!

Lisaks on üleval pool ka fotod ühest põnevast söögikohast, kus pakuti mu lemmik kala lesta. See on koht, kuhu igatahes tagasi läheks: atmosfäär, teenindajad, toidud - meeliülendav elamus!

Iirimaa on katoliiklik maa ja siinsed surnuaiad on vaatamisväärsus omaette. Paar pilti ka nendest. Viimasel pildil on väike kujuke, mis oli ühe inimese haual. Sellel kujul on tekst, mis sobib väga hästi selle reisikirjelduse lõpetamiseks: "Olgu maailm Sulle alati sama kaunis nagu Sa selle teistel muudad"!

Tänan tähelepanu eest :)!